THE CARAMEL OVERCOOKED – Score: 7/10
Caol Ila remains one of those versatile and elusive distilleries whose profile is difficult to pin down. It oscillates constantly between brilliance and disappointment, leaving enthusiasts both intrigued and exasperated. Tasting a Caol Ila is a bit like playing Russian roulette—sometimes you get a beautifully balanced dram, other times you’re left wondering what went wrong. For this reason, I often find myself gravitating toward independent bottlings, which tend to offer more character and individuality than the core range, which, in my experience, can be overly polished and lacklustre.
The whisky under review today comes from the reliable and often adventurous Signatory Vintage, part of their robust 100 Proof series. This particular release marks the tenth batch, and it showcases a blend of maturation in first-fill Oloroso sherry casks and ex-bourbon barrels—a combination that suggests richness, sweetness, and complexity, all wrapped in a cask-strength package.
From the first nosing, a surge of burnt caramel and raw cane sugar rises to meet you, delivering a heavy, almost dessert-like opening. This initial sweetness, however, is quickly engulfed by a wave of charred ash and insistent smoke, hallmarks of Caol Ila’s Islay identity. These peaty elements take control early and dominate the palate, subduing the sugary notes that once seemed poised to lead.
As the dram evolves, the Oloroso influence occasionally peeks through, lending hints of dried fruits and roasted nuts, but the smoke remains the dominant force, pressing down like a thick, acrid blanket. The mouthfeel is full-bodied and oily, with a certain tension between the sweetness of the cask and the rugged, coastal peat character.
The finish is long, dry, and resolutely oaky, yet still very much in thrall to the sharp bitterness of smoked peat, which lingers on the tongue with an almost medicinal intensity. The interplay between sweetness and smoke, while intriguing, feels somewhat imbalanced—an arresting but imperfect encounter.
In the end, this expression is bold, assertive, and undeniably memorable. It won’t appeal to everyone, particularly those in search of finesse or complexity. Yet for those who enjoy a wild, slightly unhinged take on Islay peat, it offers a fascinating, if flawed, ride.
